Whenever friends are visiting Tokyo, their first questions inevitably concern where best to eat. It comes as no surprise: known as one of the world’s foodie capitals, Tokyo’s cuisine scene is as diverse as it is delicious. Each neighborhood has its own local specialties and culinary character, while restaurants range in scale from massive canteens running on intricate logistics to back-alley holes-in-walls. Quality is almost always through-the-roof.

Often, culinary discussions revolve around transport hubs like Shinjuku, Ebisu, or Asakusa. The truth is that finding a bad meal in Tokyo can actually feel like a pretty tall order: Travel anywhere in the city, and it’s hard to feel disappointed. When it comes down to it, I always point my most tasteful friends to Kichijoji. 

A sizable neighborhood in Tokyo’s western Musashino city, Kichijoji is home to Inokashira park, one of Tokyo’s most beautiful green spaces, as well as countless vintage stores and other opportunities for shopping. It’s also home to Harmonica Yokocho, a densely-packed maze of alleyway bars and restaurants containing some of the best food in the city. I’ll be introducing some of my favorite spots across Kichijoji, a neighborhood worthy of its reputation as the kitchen of west Tokyo. 

Pollo 

A favorite of locals and ex-pats alike, Pollo specializes in just one dish: Roast Chicken, of course. Perched at the entry-point of harmonica alley just across from the station’s north exit, Pollo offers authentic roast chicken for eat-in or take-away. The interior is surprisingly airy for its size, in no small part due to its stand-to-eat layout. Look out for the hanging crocodile beneath the skylight at the rear!

The chicken itself is pretty much perfect: Beautifully spiced with thyme and rosemary, the meat is flavorful and the skin is crisp. Chicken is available as portions of a whole bird, or as part of the 'pollo plate’ with a variety of sides including potato salad, pickled vegetables, chorizo sausage, and boiled potato. The sharpness of the chorizo and vegetables provide a delicious contrast to the rich flavor of the chicken and creamy potato salad: a meal guaranteed to bring comfort and satisfaction.

Harmonica Quina 

Hidden in the heart of Kichijoji’s Harmonica Alley, Quina is my go-to pick for a delicious and satisfying meal. Established in 2006, the restaurant focuses on dishes from the Okinawa islands such as the American-influenced Taco Rice, the store’s specialty. My top pick is actually their Soki Soba, a noodle dish featuring a big chunk of boneless pork rib. Despite the name, the noodles actually have more in common with Ramen noodles than soba, and are made from flour instead of buckwheat. 

The texture and flavor of a good bowl of Sōki Soba is as close to perfection as you can get. Quina’s noodles are fluffy but toothsome, while the pork is fall-apart tender and rich in flavor. The softness of the meat is complemented by soy-sauce marinated eggs, their whites cooked until firm while the yolk remains gooey. The broth is deep and rich, and is all the better for its contrast with the fresh crunch of pickled ginger and spring onions. Pair with a cold glass of A&W Root beer for a complete Okinawan experience.

Kugutsu-sou 

When a friend first described this Kissa-ten as ‘underground', I didn’t realise they were being literal. With an atmosphere somewhere between cave, bunker, and café, Kugutsu-sou is one of my favorite spots in all of Tokyo. Established in 1979 by members of the almost 400-year-old Youkiza puppet-theatre troupe, the cafe is incredibly unique in both its background and ambiance. 

The café’s star dish is their Kugutsu-sou Pork Curry, served with a ladle to spoon the roux onto the raisin-topped rice. Japanese curry as a category, while tasty, is often homogenized in flavor by the ubiquity of store-bought curry roux, but Kugutsu-sou’s version offers real home-made quality. The pork is juicy and flavorful, while the spices of the sauce are well-balanced and harmonious. I wish every Japanese curry could taste as good as this one. 

Spanish bar Pep 

Just opposite the Kichijoji theatre, Pep offers a range of traditional Spanish Tapas and Paella in a modern, industrial space. A little on the pricier side, it’s somewhere I like to take friends and family for special occasions. The restaurant features an open kitchen as its centerpiece, with a chaotic pirouette of culinary logistics and teamwork on full display.

My top recommendations are the Akita Serrano Ham and Fermented Butter Pincho, the Pan con Tomate, the Bacon and Spinach Quiche, and the Basque Cheesecake. Unfortunately, the Paella isn’t the best I’ve had, so I’d skip in favor of ordering more of the smaller plates. Their wine selection is great, and a small glass of Pedro Ximinez is a delicious way to round off the meal.

Bonus: Chai Break at Inokashira Park   

It would be a crime to make a trip to Kichijoji without enjoying the verdant beauty of Inokashira park. Opened in 1917, the park was the first suburban public park in Tokyo city, with the waters of Inokashira pond serving as the origin point of Tokyo’s massive Kanda River. 

The park is a short walk from the station’s south exit, and Chai Break sits just nearby. Specializing in authentic Indian-style Chai, a wide variety of excellent teas are available to enjoy inside or to take away. This is a perfect spot to pick up a cold drink in the summer, something warming for winter, or just to relax and catch up with friends. Their French toast is perhaps the best I’ve ever had, and nothing beats the Iced Masala Chai for a summer walk in the park. 

The density and diversity of Kichijoji’s food scene makes the task of compiling any truly representative list difficult. The reality is that, given the number of outstanding spots in the area, you could ignore every place in my ranking and still find something amazing. Take a stroll in the park before hitting the streets– just follow your gut, and you’ll be sure to find somewhere great.