Only 50 minutes west from the clamour and chaos of Shinjuku Station lies Mount Takao, one of the world’s most visited mountains. Receiving an incredible 3 million visitors a year, Takao remains Tokyo’s dominant destination for an enjoyable, accessible hike. The 599 meter climb is split across eight routes, offering a degree of challenge or ease that attracts experts and beginners alike.

Along the way, visitors can enjoy verdant forests, fresh air, historic temples, and stunning views of Tokyo’s urban sprawl. If you’re lucky, you might even see the looming silhouette of Mt. Fuji from the summit. Those seeking a more leisurely ascent can choose between Takao’s iconic chairlift and nostalgic funicular railway, while nature lovers can catch a glimpse of the mountain’s famous Flying Squirrels just after sunset. Its charm second only to its ease of access, Mt. Takao offers a bounty of secrets and delights for every season.

It’s no wonder that the mountain’s base would become the hotspot for some of Tokyo’s most stylish and unique new businesses. In recent years, the mountain town has sprung up with a new flush of craft beer breweries, independent cafés, outdoors shops, and gourmet food stands. Whether you’re rewarding yourself for a scenic ascent, refuelling before your climb, or just killing time before diving back into the city, don’t overlook the charms of this hip hillside village. 

Sankakudo Donuts

This unassuming donut store is secretly one of the best in the whole of Tokyo. Evoking the shape of the mountain with their triangular form, Sankakudo’s signature donuts are available in a range of flavours, including classic Chocolate and Custard fillings alongside popular Japanese fillings such as Matcha and Red bean paste.

This year has seen the introduction of Sweet Potato as a seasonal special, as well as the addition of savory Ham and Cheese donut sandwiches to their menu. Easy-to-share cups of mini donuts are perfect to split among a group, and their range of gourmet Gelato is a delicious reprieve from summer heat and winter gloom alike.

My go-to item is their classic Custard donut– the filling was rich and flavorful without being over-sweet, and the donut itself was freshly cooked and still warm from the fryer. There is a deck immediately to the right of the store where customers are free to sit with their donut and enjoy the fresh mountain air.

Donuts range from ¥490 - ¥550, Gelato ranges from ¥490 - ¥540, and drinks are ¥550 each. 

https://www.sankakudo.jp/
Hours:
10:00 - 17:00 (Weekdays)
10:00 - 18:00 (Weekends)
Open seven days a week.

BRING Circular Takao

Directly next to Sankakudo is BRING, a combination outdoors clothing brand and Café promoting sustainability and the circular economy. The clothes sold in the store space are produced using recycled materials, while the pet-friendly Café space sells hot and cold Drinks alongside Nigiri, Bagels, Curry, and Cakes.

Food, Drinks, and Beer are produced in collaboration with sustainable manufacturers and independent businesses, and as part of their emphasis on sustainability, anyone that deposits an article of used clothing in their recycling collection box is offered a 10% off coupon to use in-store. 

Their indoor Café space offers free WiFi, making it perfect for staying connected, uploading images, or sitting down with your computer– in fact, it’s where I’m writing this article right now! Behind the store is a spacious outdoor deck with benches and hammocks, while their second floor is dedicated to a rentable group meeting space.

I bought a cup of their Hojicha tea, produced by Setouchi Craft Tea. According to their website, their teabags are made from plant-based ingredients without microplastics. The tea itself was wonderfully deep and dark, its roasted flavor perfect for the autumnal vibe when I visited at the height of the area’s Momiji (red leaf) festival.

Drinks are on the pricer side, starting at ¥650, while Bagels and Nigiri are priced at about ¥500 also available in combination set with certain drinks. 

https://bring.org/pages/bring-circular-takao
Hours:
9:00 – 17:00 (Friday – Wednesday)
12:00 – 17:00 (Thursdays) 

599 Museum

The Takao 599 museum opened in 2015, its name referring to the height of the mountain’s peak. Designed by Nippon Design Centre (most well-known for their long association with lifestyle brand MUJI) It’s unsurprising that their stripped-back approach extends to the minimal, focussed atmosphere of the museum.

Exhibitions include displays detailing the spiritual significance of the mountain’s association with Tengu (long-nosed mythical creatures), it’s long history as a protected nature reserve, the sights and secrets along the mountain’s various climbing routes, and incredible cases of plants, insects and animals indigenous to the mountain’s ecosystem. The museum also presents an environmentalist message, prompting visitors to reflect on how best to preserve the condition of the mountain for future generations to come.

After experiencing the mountain’s history and incredible biodiversity, it’s also the perfect spot to sit and recharge with a cup of coffee. Their desserts are made with milk delivered directly from nearby Isonuma farm, while the seating area boasts a panoramic view of the townscape leading to the station. Admission to the museum is free of charge and provides the perfect introduction to the mountain and surrounding area, so make sure to check it out while you’re there.

Takao blend Coffee is ¥450 a cup, while Cake is ¥550 or ¥850 in a set with coffee or tea. 

https://www.takao599museum.jp
Museum Hours:
8:00 - 17:00 (April to November) (Last admission 16:30)
8:00 - 16:00 (December to March) (Last admission 15:30)
Open seven days a week, but check website for planned closures.
Cafe Hours: 11:00 - Last order 30 minutes before museum closes.

Takao Coffee

 A little removed from the main strip of Stores, directly across from the grounds of the 599 museum is Takao Coffee, a Café offering coffee and cakes with a comfortable and bright interior as well as an outdoor window for drinks to-go. On top of sweets such as Gateaux aux Noix, Tiramisu Cakes, Financiers and Madeleines, the store also sell their own nature-themed coffee grounds and merchandise. 

Although a little further from the route between the station and mountain base, the place was packed on the day I visited. I wonder if everyone had the same idea to escape the crowd, creating their own in the process. The milky-beige awning of the building is framed beneath the western slope of the valley containing the town, while across the street from the Café is the Annai river, a tributary of the great river Tama that gives its name to the West Tokyo region.

This is one of the more expensive spots to get a drink, with basic coffee starting at ¥600 and slices of cake at around ¥800.

https://takao-coffee.com/
Hours: Open every day 10:00 – 18:00

Takao 36 Sauna

Just down from Takao Coffee is Takao 36 Sauna, a building containing the titular Sauna alongside a Restaurant on the second floor, as well as the ground floor’s combination Brewery and Taproom Takao 36 Beer. Although I wouldn’t recommend drinking before your ascent (Unless you like to make things difficult for yourself), it’s a great spot for a refreshing and rewarding drink after arriving back in town.

With a minimal white-and-grey pixel art mosaic as its backdrop, the ground-floor tap room features beers brewed on-site by CRAFTROCK as well as classic beer food such as Kara-age fried chicken, French Fries, Serrano Ham, and a bread of the day from CRAFTROCK bakery. Five of their eight taps are brewed on-site, while the other three are produced at their facility in Nihonbashi.

I’m partial to lighter beers so I tried a glass of their Kolsch, alarmingly named “Drink all day”. Gesturing more to its easiness to drink than encouraging overconsumption, it really was the kind of beer I could see myself ordering several pints of in a row. I’d even say that it would become a go-to if more widely available.

Another item on their menu that caught my eye was their “Hop Sparkling Water”, a non-alcoholic drink infused with the essence of beer hops promising a flavor similar to that of Muscat grapes and Citrus fruit. I gave it a go after finishing my Kolsch, and found myself puzzled by the flavor. “Sparkling Hand Soap” is maybe the most evocative way to describe it. That being said, I didn’t actually find it that unpleasant, and it’s certainly more unique than a standard non-alcoholic beer.

The taproom is open until 7:30pm, making it a convenient visit if you’ve descended the mountain after the town’s other businesses have closed at about 5pm. I’ll have to try the Sauna the next time I’m around.

https://takao36sauna.com/
Hours: 11:00 – 19:30 (Wednesday to Monday)
Food Last order 18:30 /  Drink Last order 19
Closed Monday and Tuesday, as well as some public holidays.

This list is far from exhaustive – I encourage you to discover even more of Takao’s new stores and restaurants on your next visit.

West Tokyo– the home of Mt. Takao– has seen something of a Renaissance in recent years. With a wave of young professionals from the city-centre moving west in response to rising rent and property prices, new businesses are opening across the Tama region to meet the demand. It’s not just Takao receiving a fresh coat of paint, with locations across the Keio and Chuo lines seeing the establishment of exciting new Restaurants, Cafés, Stores, Bars, and Taprooms. At the same time, business owners in areas such as Koenji are at risk of being priced out by the rising rent that comes with new, more affluent residents.

Although many tourists only go as far as Mitaka’s Ghibli Museum, we aim to cover this new wave of up-and-coming neighborhoods and overlooked neighbourhood mainstays in the hope that you’ll give Tokyo’s less crowded western regions a chance. We’ll be publishing more articles and guides regarding these areas in the coming months, so stay tuned.