The difference between the flagship fried chicken offerings of Family Mart and Lawson is in the connections they provide. Famichiki is like returning to your childhood friend or meeting up with a high school pal after years apart, it's always there for you offering a familiar warmth (in the case of this hot-box staple, a warmth assisted by juiciness). Sometimes it tries out a new look (or flavor), but it's the original you have a bond with.

Since its introduction, meanwhile, Kara-age Kun has thrived on the thrill of variety. It offers three base flavors apt for different moods one might find themselves in — I gravitate towards “Red” when stressed out for whatever reason — while constantly introducing limited-time tastes. Kara-age Kun urges you to take a risk and bite into something new all the time.

Lawson's signature fried snack celebrates its 40th birthday this year, and as part of the celebrations Kara-age Kun continues to offer up new twists to its formulas. The latest is “Sakutto! Kara-age Kun,” wherein the typically tender coating around the chicken becomes crispy. A seemingly simple change but one that radically alters its makeup.

And it's good! The actual flavor of this Kara-age Kun is “salt,” which comes through enough without overpowering the tastiness of the "Plain" offering, providing a subtle twist to a favorite. Far more telling is the texture, here crispier than any properly fried Kara-age Kun I've experienced to date. Don't expect a fried chicken snap, but a pleasant crunch that offers a change of pace for the snack. Which is what it is all about.